tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-52678259588040642252024-03-14T05:01:01.412+00:00rg-designsRichardGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14097682568530208851noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5267825958804064225.post-49639925589479740492008-05-12T12:55:00.006+00:002008-06-17T12:01:06.240+00:00The WallAs a birthday/end-of-academic-year present to myself, I had decided to make myself a home bouldering wall. So, tuesday 6th May (my birthday), a lorry turned up with a load of timber (2x 2440x1220x18thk Exterior grade ply, 8x 75x45x2440 sawn treated) and at the same time one of my birthday presents arrived - loads of holds! (Thank you Jackie, Andy, Andrew, Caro, Josh, Bethany, Ben [and Oshi?]).<br /><a title="Raw materials by rg_designs, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/2577982806/"><img height="240" alt="Raw materials" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3043/2577982806_36d501c060_m.jpg" width="160" /></a> <a title="Raw materials by rg_designs, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/2577983746/"><img height="240" alt="Raw materials" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3020/2577983746_c932789cfa_m.jpg" width="160" /></a><br /><br />The raw materials - the boards (the pile of rubbish in the foreground is what remained of my purgola and bench following a short break from revising!) and the beams.<br /><br />Unfortunately I still had an exam and a coursework hand-in to do. So all through my final week of revision and coursework, the timber remained outside to tempt me (although I was able to find the time to clear prepare most of the landing zone). Having finally completed my uni work on Saturday, I was free to start on Sunday.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a title="Bottom Support by rg_designs, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/2577984696/"><img height="333" alt="Bottom Support" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3062/2577984696_d155dc2392.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br />First step - attach the main mounting timber to the wall (this used to be the vertical from my old purgola).<br /><br /><a title="First board attached partial frame by rg_designs, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/2577986186/"><img height="333" alt="First board attached partial frame" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3167/2577986186_d35a8d926c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br />Next up was building the frame, first by attaching the main panel to the vertical. Then by attaching the lower horizontal.<br /><br /><a title="Both boards attached to partial frame by rg_designs, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/2577986998/"><img height="333" alt="Both boards attached to partial frame" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3272/2577986998_7da0c27738.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br />Then the second panel was cut to size and attached to the existing assembly along with it's vertical. The assembly then had to be flipped over (nervous work - partially supported panels attached to an incomplete frame does not make for a rigid structure.).<br /><br /><a title="All frame timber cut by rg_designs, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/2577989634/"><img height="333" alt="All frame timber cut" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3055/2577989634_2f2819fefb.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br />The rest of the framework was measured and cut. The horizontals were nailed in place with nail plates and at this point I realised that the brackets I had did not fit with any of the screws I had and the shops were closed. Oh well.<br /><br />The assembly was flipped and the verticals fitted, and screwed in place along with the horizontals. That was it for Sunday.<br /><br /><a title="All frame assembled to boards by rg_designs, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/2577990316/"><img height="333" alt="All frame assembled to boards" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3161/2577990316_7b3dc9b0e4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br />Monday I popped round to Wickes (other DIY stores are available) after work to pick up the missing screws. I then worked out the best pattern to get the maximum number of holes and marked them out on the wide side - a hex grid @ 200mm centres and drilled them.<br /><br /><a title="Close up of hole pattern by rg_designs, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/2577991182/"><img height="333" alt="Close up of hole pattern" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3035/2577991182_753a714943.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br />The light was fading so that was the end of things for Monday.<br /><br /><a title="Strengthening brackets attached by rg_designs, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/2577991858/"><img height="333" alt="Strengthening brackets attached" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3096/2577991858_8d589fd530.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br />Tuesday I finally finished drilling the holes and, after flipping the wall over again, attached the right angle brackets to reinforce the structure. Then it was time to start wacking in the Tee-Nuts. Once again I was short of the number needed - by 75! So it was pack up for the day and onto the net to order some more.<br /><br />The T-nuts were taking too long so I decided to get the wall mounted rather than waiting for them to arrive. Mounting it was a bit more difficult than it sounds as it required lying the assembly down on the ground and shimming it up using whatever I had to hand so that the hinges could be attached to the bottom edge. Once it was up I figured why not get some of those holds on (plus it allowed me to put off tiding up for a few more minutes.)<br /><a title="The wall is up! by rg_designs, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/2577159757/"><img height="500" alt="The wall is up!" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3040/2577159757_9c1a85ffac.jpg" width="333" /></a><a title="The wall is up! by rg_designs, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/2577161265/"><img height="500" alt="The wall is up!" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3046/2577161265_82c11c0542.jpg" width="333" /></a><br /><br />A quick run down of the features:<br />Two panels (one 1220 wide, the other 250 wide)<br />Appox. 120(ish) M10 holes for holds.<br />Jamming crack<br />8 M8 screw holes per vertical edge for attaching edge/jamming features<br />Adjustable angle<br /><br />The wall has had a bit more use now (and has more holds on it) so I've had a chance to think through what needs doing. First up is that some of the bolts are too tight a fit with the T-nuts, so I will either be recutting their threads or just getting some new bolts from the same people I got the T-nuts from. On the things to do list the first priority is fitting a kick board at the bottom (with a few screw-ons on) for sit starts. Also on the list is removing a section of the patio to improve the drop-zone (particularly for the small panel). Finally I have to start carving holds to increase the variety of problems I can do, particularly for the jamming crack.RichardGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14097682568530208851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5267825958804064225.post-23961710542255065762007-12-09T02:49:00.000+00:002007-12-09T02:57:21.795+00:00Thailand Day... One?Left home at 10 o'clock Friday morning UK time, arrived in Thailand at 1 this morning Bangkok time. Extremely tired. Note to self - 8 hour lay overs in Beijing airport are very boring! There are only so many times you can walk up and down two corridors before tedium takes hold. Brain not quite functioning at full capacity. Hoping to make it to 9pm before crashing out for at least 12 hours. Bangkok is just as I remember it - hot, humid, dirty (sorry but it is) and crowded.RichardGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14097682568530208851noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5267825958804064225.post-66602547104743154122007-07-05T09:56:00.000+00:002007-07-05T09:59:05.966+00:00New OMC websiteMy climbing club, the Oxford Mountaineering Club, has a new website:<br /><a href="http://www.oxfordmc.org.uk/">http://www.oxfordmc.org.uk/</a><br />Please visit!RichardGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14097682568530208851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5267825958804064225.post-22624103841408102712007-05-22T15:15:00.000+00:002007-06-13T12:35:16.556+00:00Cornwall - Mayday bank holidayTo kick off his bike ride from Land's End to John O'Groats, Dave proposed a long weekend climbing in Cornwall. So, with two cars loaded up with tents, food, climbing gear and bikes, we headed off on the Thursday afternoon. Matt and I arrived first and picked an area in the 'Wild Camping' field. We were unable to figure out why this was called 'Wild'. Dave and Ian arrived and after finishing pitching tents, we headed straight to the pub. The campsite we chose was just round the corner from 'The First and Last Inn' which served a lovely pint called (unsurprisingly) 'First and Last'. With a few pints inside us and with plans made for the next day we headed back to the tents... only for Matt to find that his food (which was stored in the porch of his tent) had been found by some kind of 'Beast'. His bread and cheese had gone missing and there were paw prints in his butter (leading to speculation that 'The Beast' had made itself a cheese sandwich). Our suspicions fell on a kitten that was hanging around.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491813881/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/216/491813881_e7d50e37a6_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491813881/">Sun over Commando Ridge</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>.</span></div><br /><br />Our target the next day was Bosigran Ridge, also known as 'Commando Ridge' as it was used to train commandos in rock climbing during WW2. After extensive preparations (see photo) we climbed down to the start of the route - just above see level (it should be pointed out that this is an 8 pitch route).<br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491015401/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/219/491015401_61ad6080fb_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491015401/">The serious business of preparing to climb</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div><br /><br />The climb is a mix of mostly quite easy sections interspersed with the occasional trickier moment.<br />Highlights include an open chimney on the second pitch and some 'interesting' traversing some of the other pitches. It was, on occasion, easy enough that moving together probably would have been a better option. Equally there were more than a couple of moves where I was glad for the rope.<br /><br />The most memorable pitch for me is one I remember for what happened after I had led it. It was a short unprotected traverse leading to a high but short slabby corner with the belay being the top edge of the slab. Having set up a belay I began to haul the rope in, only for it to jam. Matt was unable to free it up from his end and so, using my belay as protection I down-climbed to free the rope. Somehow the rope had managed to get itself trapped in the mechanism of the cam I had placed in the bottom of the crack. After freeing the rope and removing the cam, I noticed a massive knot just below the only other bit of gear I had placed on the pitch.<br /><br /><div style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491008188/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/222/491008188_ee46eb43b3_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491008188/">Matt emerges from the rocks on the fourth pitch of Commando Ridge</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div><br />I removed this gear as well and untied the knot before returning to my belay. At this point one of the next pair of climbers called up to ask if there was any room at the belay, which there wasn't. Matt seconded the route without problem, but as he arrived at the belay the leader of the following pair of climbers arrived. The small belay was already overloaded, so he climbed on through, essentially trapping Matt and I at the belay until he and his partner had completed the next pitch. The next leader in the queue to do the pitch arrived at the bottom of the groove below our belay just as we were sort ourselves out to move off. Fortunately she realised the situation we were in and took an alterative finish to her pitch which bypassed the ridge. This allowed me to finish the ridge without incident (or gear as it happened - the best way to protect the pitch seemed to be to loop the rope behind the other side of the ridge in true mountaineering fashion).<br /><br /><div style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491797986/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/191/491797986_83b33c00b0_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491797986/">Walking back to cars after Commando Ridge</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div><br /><br /><br /><br />When we returned to the campsite that evening we found evidence of another attack of the Beast. This time it had managed to extract a bar of chocolate from the easter egg box Ian had left in the porch of his tent. For supper I had been hoping to have a bit of a BBQ but by the time we got back to the campsite the shops were closed and so we were unable to get the charcoal we needed. As I had brought the food with me I needed to eat it ASAP so I ended up stewing it in a soup. This was a lot more edible than it looked although I'd probably not include the beefburgers next time! Later that evening Ian spotted a new suspect in our search for the Beast - a fox.<br /><br />The next day found us at Sennen Cove, and me feeling lazy. So I let the rest start climbing whilst I lounged on the rock reading guidebooks. <div style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491816955/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/204/491816955_e8766f0952_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491816955/">Ian belaying Dave at Sennen</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div>I was later talked into seconding for Ian on Corner Climb which was an excellent route. <div style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491804694/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/232/491804694_f0127586ac_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491804694/">Sennen Cove - Demo route end</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div>We finished the day by climbing out of the crag with our backpacks, Ian and I chose Banana Flake (I took the second again). This is a one of those varied routes. You start in a slabby corner and arete which leads to a large ledge. From there you climb crack in a fairly short vertical wall to another ledge. From this ledge you have a very short overhang leading to the top, this was tricky with our backpacks on and my finish onto the top was messy and seal-like, but it got the job done. Dave, Ian and Matt were keen for a swim to finish the day and charged off into the sea, I decided that, since everyone we had seen in the water that day was wearing wetsuits , it might be too cold for me. From the reactions that the guys made going in I think this was the right decision! After a meal of fish and chips we went for a quick pint at the pub in the cove. This turned into several as there was a comedian/musician on which we settled in to watch. We walked back up towards the campsite - stopping at the First and Last Inn on the way for a last pint. That night, whilst I was fast asleep, the beast pounced on my tent landing on my legs. It was trying to get at my food which I had been keeping in the tent. Fortunately my flayling and startled yelp managed to scare the beast off. An inspection the next morning showed that the beast had at some point managed to get between the tents inner and outer, leaving paw prints and small holes on the inner. There were also paw prints on the outer which must have been from it's attack during the night. My food was immediately moved into the car!<br /><br /><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491415381/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/188/491415381_87eeb1db0d_m.jpg" /></a> </div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491415381/">Preparing for the off</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px">That morning, Dave started his ride to John o'Groats. Ian and Matt accompanied him on the first leg whilst I volunteered for cab duty to bring him and his bike back to the site that evening. </div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><div style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491415461/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/215/491415461_c7fa17b499_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491415461/">At lands end</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div></div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><div style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491426237/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/196/491426237_01d3994f8d_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491426237/">Away they go</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div></div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px">I did accompany them to Land's End from the campsite to see them off. I met up with them later in Penzance to pick up Dave and we headed back to the site for a BBQ (having picked up charcoal and food in Penzance). </div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"></div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"></div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"></div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"></div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><div style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491426249/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/194/491426249_a355d3c837_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491426249/">After the first leg in Penzance</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div></div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"></div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px">Ian and Matt cycled back (since they weren't cycling to John o'Groats). The weather started to turn after the BBQ and by the next morning was not suitable for climbing. </div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><div style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491418202/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/190/491418202_d8ddecfa4b_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491418202/">Ready for the off on day 2</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div></div><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px">So, after I dropped of Dave to start the next leg of his journey, we struck camp and head for home, stopping off at the lizard for a pasty on the way. </div><div style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491818126/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/227/491818126_e69dac6da1_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491818126/">The lizard - wet day</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div><div style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491816782/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/208/491816782_32b3e78a09_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/491816782/">The lizard - wet day</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/">rg_designs</a>. </span></div>RichardGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14097682568530208851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5267825958804064225.post-36209381105586436762007-05-14T12:04:00.000+00:002007-07-05T12:58:07.735+00:00Stanage 22 AprilWe had just had a couple of weeks of unseasonably good weather and spending all day in an air conditioned office staring out at the blue sky was starting to get to me. Fortunately Ingrid mention that she would be heading to the peak for a day at the weekend. I jumped at the chance, especially when she mentioned that her mate, Dave, was looking for a willing second to follow him up some VS's. I was starting to get bored of always leading and I also wanted to push my grade outdoors. An extra added bonus was that I could go as far as Nottingham the night before and spend some time with my brother Mike, his wife Dez and my nephew Noah (who very nearly said something that sorted of sounded like he might be trying to say my name!).<br /><br />I arrived at the crag quite early (before midday!), parked at the plantation car park and caught up on my sleep whilst I waited for Ingrid, Jim and Dave. We warmed up on Bishop's route (S) which had quite a comfortable boulder part way up that I was reluctant to leave. We then took on Christmas Crack (HS) (despite being closer to Easter), which was most enjoyable especially the final moves which required moving around the right hand side of a slightly over hanging bulge. We followed this with it's neighbour Central Trinity (VS) which was another excellent climb, starting in a short crack before traversing left to the base of the main crack, there was a tricky move to gain the crack above (we all seemed to take different angles of attack on this move - I favoured sticking both hands in the crack and pulling sideways in opposite directions (I think this is called a Gaston)).<br /><br />Dave was keen to do Hargreaves' Original Route (VS) next as he had his eye on it for a while. This climbs a wide face with a few horizontal breaks in it. Climbing it involved lots of moving side to side along these breaks whilst searching for the way up. Our next route was one we had seen Jim and Ingrid climbing earlier, Robin Hood's Right hand Buttress Direct (HS). This starts with climbing a block at the back of a small cave up to the cave roof, you edge round under the roof to reach a ledge. From here you climb straight up the wide crack above the cave.<br /><br />After this route we took a short break to regroup, which led to me playing around on one of the boulders at the base of the crag. I had reached a point where I had a heel hook onto the top of the boulder and was about to make the risky move onto the top when I realised how stupid it would be to continue without anything to catch me. I carefully retraced my steps to the point that I started, with my legs just off the ground, believing myself just a tiny drop short of the ground I let go with my hands... and fell onto my back wacking my elbow on a rock (the bruise took about 4 days to come out - it was a beauty!).<br /><br />After the feeling returned to my arm we decided to have a look at one last route (Mississippi buttress Direct VS) to see if it was any good (and if the weather would hold out). Dave felt the route looked do-able and it wasn't raining so we went for it. This has to be one of the most awkward, off balance and thrutchy routes I've done so far. Dave's lead was not without difficulty, so I was apprehensive when it came to second it. The route is eclectic, from the start up a corner crack to the overhang above into a small corner and finishing up a much needed face to finish. We had been contemplating another route after this but were so drained by the route we decided to head back to civilisation.RichardGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14097682568530208851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5267825958804064225.post-5307389136191523472007-05-14T08:56:00.000+00:002007-07-05T13:00:23.706+00:00Symonds Yat 14th AprilTodd's friend Ed had managed to find a day when Todd could get out for the whole day climbing outdoors. I ran off a few e-mails and texts to see if anyone else would be up for it. The initial response was disappointing - most people could only make it out Sunday (not an option for us unfortunately). However by friday I had four or five additional bodies in James C and Guillaume from the OMC and Matt and Steve from work.<br /><br />I was doubtful about going to SY as the two previous occasions I had been there it had been a bit damp underfoot which made for slippery boots, but the weather, as we set off on Saturday morning, looked good. After a quick stop to buy a guide book and some new rock boots we arrived at the crag in the late morning. When we got there Guillaume and James were already on a route - so after a quick chat with them I led Matt up a diff (Wanderer) as he hadn't been out doors for a couple of years.<br /><br />Once we were at the top I got a message that Steve had arrived and was heading off to try and find us - so I went to find him. After about half an hour we finally managed to find each other. Like Matt, it had been a few years since Steve had last been out, so once again I pick out a diff (Recollection) as our next route (quite a green diff at that). This also gave Steve and Matt a chance to practice their abbing as this was the only reasonable descent from the top.<br /><br />Steve then convinced me to take on Snoozin' Suzie (V Diff). I seconded this the first time I climbed outdoors and had enjoyed it. Todd and Ed were just setting off so we decided to wait and grab a bite whilst we did. When we did set off I was a bit unsure and ended up stitching the first pitch with gear, to the point where I was running quite short of quick draws by the time I reached the belay. In contrast I barely placed any gear on the second pitch (which I feel to be much better than the guide book claims). The view from the top of this pitch was fantastic (as it had been on my previous visit) and I have to say that this is one of my favorite belays. I used only a piece or two more gear on the final pitch. From the belay I was able to see Todd and Ed topping out on the Pinnacle. James and Guillaume had just finished they're route and popped around to say hi. We agreed to call it a day and go for some food/beer at the Saracen's Head in SY.RichardGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14097682568530208851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5267825958804064225.post-20695929340645228832007-03-26T16:37:00.000+00:002007-03-28T07:46:37.850+00:00Peak district tripNever forget the map or details for your <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">accommodation</span> when going on a trip, like I did on Friday. What should have been a two to two and a half hour journey took four hours! We arrived at the bunkhouse at nine, tired and fed up, but after a few drinks and the arrival of more bodies, good spirits were restored. A quick scan of the maps and guide books indicated that the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">head torch</span> bouldering session James and I had planned was too much effort for that time of night. With that shelved we could get on with the important work of planning the next days outing. Weather reports were produced which declared that <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Saturday</span> would be dry but cold (2°C on the high peaks). With some reservations (plans were made to find alternative means of occupying our time should it prove too cold!) it was decided to assault <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Stanage</span>. With this settled we were able to get on with the serious business of talking and drinking.<br /><br />The next morning broke quite early thanks to the Peak equivalent of an alarm clock (a cow mooing, loudly, outside your window is an unusual but effective way to wake up) and, after a leisurely breakfast, we headed off (properly armoured against the cold) to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Stanage</span>. As our party arrived at the edge we could see that Chris, Clare and James were already off and climbing and that Richard P, Julie, Ingrid and Jim were close to the off on <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Hollybush</span> crack.<br /><br /><div style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><br /><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435013469/"><br /><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/167/435013469_e06ded41e0_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435013469/"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">OMC</span> Prepare to assault <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Stanage</span></span></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><br />Originally uploaded by </span><a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">rg</span>_designs</span></a><span style="font-size:78%;">.</span> </span></div><br /><br />After a quick review of the guide we picked a V Diff Leaning buttress crack as our first ascent of the day whilst Nick and Abby headed further down the crag to take on a Diff. This was my first climb of the season and it showed. I couldn't seem to get my head around how to move on the rock and I couldn't get myself to believe in the gear. When I got to the top I decided that the next route I did would be on a top rope.<br /><br />Once we got back to the bottom of the crag, we went to see whether Nick and Abby (Richard, Julie, Ingrid and Jim having headed off for Sheffield by this point for some coaching with Dave <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">MacLeod</span> [Lucky *&£$'s]). After a short(<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">ish</span>) discussion we wandered over to a pair of climbs neither of which took Therese's fancy so we queued behind Nick and Abby to go up Bee.<br /><br /><div style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435019184/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/165/435019184_a5de5c5817_m.jpg" /></a><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435019184/"><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">Nick leads Bee (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Stanage</span> Popular <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">VDiff</span>) 3</span></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><br />Originally uploaded by </span><a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">rg</span>_designs</span></a><span style="font-size:78%;">.</span> </span></div><br /><br />Once again I was at the sharp end but this time the first climb jitters were gone, and the route proved to be a very enjoyable and satisfying one. I even glimpsed a spot of blue sky (for a moment anyway).<br /><br />After descending we took some time for lunch before deciding we wanted some shorter routes. At this point Abby decided to retreat to the warm of the car, leaving Nick, Therese and myself to attack a V Diff called Small Crack (although how any crack that is wide enough to arm jam can be called small...). To my relief Nick volunteered to take the lead and set off in fine style. Unfortunately he had difficulties with the crux move and decided to leave it to another day. So it fell to me to take up the lead (if only to retrieve my two cams which had been placed). As I got to the crux Chris <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">Poad</span> happened by and pointed out a good nut placement behind a flake which helped me get beyond the crux. I moved up to the final sequence which I protected with a hex the value of which was entirely psychological.<br /><br />Nick took the next lead up Fire Curtain, a squirmy corner V Diff, short but excellent climbing. We finished the day with the suitably named The be all and end all, which I led. This was another short V Diff with fine climbing which included a good fist jam in a horizontal break half way up. On our way back to the bunkhouse we stopped for a brief pint in the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">Scotsman's</span> Pack (Nick insisted that he owed me a pint for retrieving his no. 9 rock which a crack on Fire Curtain had tried to swallow). We also had to stop off in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">Hathersage</span> for some supplies and a quick browse of the gear shop. We arrived back at the hut just in time for me to prepare my small contribution to the evenings feast.<br /><br />The meal was fantastic and comprised 6 courses: Squash soup, Quiche and pie, Pasta with sauce, <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">Rhubarb</span> and custard, Cheese and biscuits and finally Cake.<br /><div style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435026274/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/118/435026274_5184d8cbdf_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px"><span style="font-size:78%;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435026274/">Reading</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">rg</span>_designs</a>. </span></span></div><br />Over dinner plans were made, further consultation of the weather reports (which had been printed <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">Friday</span>) showed that Sunday was going to be colder and possibly wet, so <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">Burbage</span> (North) was decided upon. This was in the hope that, should the weather prove too cold at the top, we would at least be able to boulder. The combination of the days exercise and the large meal led to a subdued evening of reading and chatting.<br /><br />Sunday morning arrived early once again thanks to the cow outside the window. We had to vacate the bunkhouse by 10am! Having managed this we stopped in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">Hathersage</span> so that I could buy a new rucksack which I had spotted the day before. We arrived to find <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">Burbage</span> covered in a light fog and, keen to get started (and warm) I started up my first route of the day, Cranberry Wall. Unfortunately I was in too much of a hurry, as I discovered when I tried to place my first piece of protection. In my rush to get going I had neglected to reorganise my gear from the previous day. As a result I spent the next 10 minutes searching through my rack for the cam I needed and an appropriate quick draw. Having finally placed the gear and with the rope clipped I took stock of the what remained of the route. It looked imposing to my shot nerves so chickened out into the easy crack to the left. Therese seconded the route as it should of been done. Just after she topped out we noticed Nick and Abby on the path at the bottom of the crag. Our invitation to them to top rope the route got confused looks, until they got a bit closer and were able to recognise us!<br /><br />After completing the route they informed us that they had parked next to Richard and Julie's car, so we set off down the crag to find them. We found them at Ash tree wall with Richard topping out on a route. I took the opportunity to reorganise my gear and have some food. After returning to the group Richard and James moved to the right hand side of the wall so that James could lead Bilberry <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">arete</span>. I decided on Bilberry Face which looked well protected (it was) with some fun moves (they were). The crux move was right at the top and required some careful moves on marginal holds (fun!).<br /><br />After belaying Nick, Therese and Abby up, I returned to the base of the wall only to discover that I had left my food back at the car. By this point the sun was starting to show itself so took some photos of Nick (who was seconding for Ingrid who had shown up whilst I was at the top of the route) and Richard (who was leading the route I had just finished).<br /><div style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435026324/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/152/435026324_149d505bae_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435026324/">The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">OMC</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">sychronised</span> climbing team in practice</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">rg</span>_designs</a>. </span></span></div><br />When Ingrid rejoined us she was keen to lead another route Ash Tree Crack, so I volunteered to second it for her. This proved to be another excellent route with some tricky footwork.<br /><br />As I walked off the top Jim arrived from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">Stanage</span> where he had been bouldering with some old friends. After saying hi to everyone he wandered off to play on a nearby boulder. Inspired by this I had a look at the boulder which faced ash tree wall. I found a fun problem up the left hand side using the side and some obvious holds on the face. Encouraged by this I also tried a couple more problems on the face. By this point the sun was fully out, the sky was blue and I was starting to get too hot, so I removed 3 of the 4 layers I had on top and continued playing on the boulder. Julie and Ingrid both had a go as well, keen to employ the tips they had picked up from Dave <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">MacLeod</span> the day before.<br /><div style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435117198/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/176/435117198_3cdd1c878b_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435117198/">Ingrid bouldering</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">rg</span>_designs</a>. </span></div><br /><br />My personal favorite problem on this boulder involved walking your hands up a diagonal crack whilst smearing up the face below before making a reach for the block on top and using a toe in the crack to help pull up to the final hold on the left hand side of the top block.<br /><div style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435128455/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/164/435128455_5501660751_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435128455/">Jim bouldering</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">rg</span>_designs</a>. </span></div><br />Deciding I had had enough leading for the weekend and keen to get do some more bouldering I joined Jim who had found a slab which he wanted to try some problems on. We did a few problems there before moving to another boulder he'd found. Whilst we were there Therese wandered over, rucksack on back and ready to leave. I took the hint and packed my stuff up to go, leaving my boulder mat for the rest of the group to use - as they too wanted to give this bouldering stuff a try.<br /><br />More photos are available at the Oxford mountaineering club flickr group: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/oxfmc/pool/">http://www.flickr.com/groups/oxfmc/pool/</a><br /><br /><p><br /></p><div style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435149958/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/148/435149958_167435cadb_m.jpg" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435149958/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">OMC</span> Bouldering</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">rg</span>_designs</a>. </span></div><br /><br /><br /><div style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435150032/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid" height="161" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/176/435150032_e826c7cf80_m.jpg" width="220" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435150032/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">Burbage</span> crags in the sun</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">rg</span>_designs</a>. </span></div><br /><br /><div style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 10px; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px"><a title="photo sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435150024/"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-TOP: #000000 2px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; WIDTH: 205px; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 2px solid; HEIGHT: 148px" height="162" alt="" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/151/435150024_9d9c76dd34_m.jpg" width="221" /></a><br /><span style="MARGIN-TOP: 0px;font-size:78%;" ><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rg_designs/435150024/">End of the day</a><br />Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/rg_designs/"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">rg</span>_designs</a>. </span></div>RichardGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14097682568530208851noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5267825958804064225.post-62120906517069679082007-03-22T16:20:00.000+00:002007-03-22T17:04:57.568+00:00Some results of my latest blunderings around the WebI thought I'd start my blog with some of the things that I've found in my recent web crawling:<br /><a href="http://www.google.co.uk/reader/">Google reader</a> - an online RSS reader, I found it in an attempt to reduce the time I was spending on the net (bad move, had the exact opposite effect - see below). Means that you can browse your RSS where-ever you go.<br /><br />My favorite RSS feeds of the moment:<br /><a href="http://www.instructables.com">Instructables</a> - An online how-to database - some fantastic stuff on there but also some stuff which is NOT safe for work or kids. The quality of the good stuff outweighs the NSFW/K stuff - well worth a visit.<br /><a href="http://www.makezine.com/blog/">Make</a> - In a similar vein to Instructables (and regularly cites the best of the site), this blog is all about the things people are making (hence the name). Can be very inspirational.<br /><a href="http://idealist.blinkr.net/">Idealist</a> - Interesting/Weird/Good are posted for people to admire.<br /><a href="http://www.treehugger.com/">Treehugger</a> - Environmental living site. The blog is devoted to reporting environmental news from around the world.<br /><br />Other sites that are worth looking at:<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com">Flickr</a> - Photo sharing site - go to the Explore button to see some amazing pictures randomly selected from those uploaded in the last day or so.<br /><a href="http://del.icio.us">del.icio.us</a> - Online bookmark/favorites store. Uses a tag system (similar to Blogger and Flickr) to catagorise your bookmarks. Like google reader, it can be accessed from anywhere.<br /><br />For more interesting links see my latest del.icio.us bookmarks and tags at the bottom of the right hand sidebar.RichardGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14097682568530208851noreply@blogger.com1